This is part of series of articles covering hard landscaping in new build properties. From the initial planning phase – designing a garden with good structures, functionality and creativity can be difficult when starting from a compacted muddy plot.
You can also read our how-to guide to choosing the positioning of your patio area (and shape) and choosing patio slabs based on aesthetic trends and practical considerations that are most popular in 2026.
This article covers the critical considerations for laying a path or patio for optimum results on a new build plot.
This is a five-minute read.
Investing in a patio for a new-build property is about more than just aesthetics; it is a critical structural addition. Because new build gardens often consist of "made ground" (soil that has been heavily disturbed, moved, or backfilled during construction), the risk of settlement and drainage failure is significantly higher than in established gardens.
To ensure your investment lasts, the construction must follow a rigorous, multi-layered approach designed to counteract the unique challenges of a modern housing development.
Lumberjacks – the Ideal One-Stop Shop for Designing New-Build Gardens in Ipswich
Lumberjacks can serve as a one-stop shop for all your gardening needs, particularly if you have just moved into a new-build property in Ipswich, Felixstowe, Woodbridge, Stowmarket or anywhere in Suffolk. to come for many of your gardening needs, whether you have just moved into a new-build or just want to refresh an existing outdoor space.
Considerations for New Build Patio and Pathway Laying
Phase 1: The Foundation and The Membrane
Before any stone is laid, the "sub-grade" (the raw earth) must be excavated to a depth that accounts for the entire build-up. Once levelled, the first critical component is the membrane.
The membrane, which is usually made from a synthetic material, is non-negotiable because of the unique characteristics of new-build gardens; here, the soil is often high in clay or loose topsoil. Without a membrane, the heavy aggregate layer will eventually sink into the soft earth, leading to uneven paving and "pumping" (where mud rises through the gaps).
The membrane acts as a structural separator: it allows water to pass through for drainage but keeps the stone and soil permanently apart.
Phase 2: The Aggregate Sub-Base (The "Skeleton")
On top of the membrane sits the aggregate layer, typically consisting of MOT Type 1 aggregates (usually crushed limestone or granite).
While 100mm is standard for older homes, new-build properties often require 150mm to 200mm of aggregate. This thicker "crust" is necessary to bridge any soft spots in the recently backfilled ground.
This layer must be compacted in "lifts" of 50mm-75mm using a heavy vibrating plate. This eliminates air pockets that would otherwise lead to "dips" in the patio as the house settles over the first few years.
Phase 3: The Bedding (Cement) Layer
Once the sub-base is rock-solid, a full mortar bed (a mix of sharp sand or Soft sand and cement) is applied.
You should avoid "spot bedding" (where the slab is laid on five spots of mortar, one on each corner and one in the centre). As of 2026, professional standards require a full wet bed. This ensures there are no gaps under the slabs where water can collect, freeze, and crack the slabs, or where insects and weeds can take hold.
Phase 4: The Paving Slabs
The final step is the installation of the slabs – whether they are porcelain, sandstone, or natural stone paving (above). For porcelain, an SBR/polymer priming slurry must be applied to the back of the slab to ensure it chemically bonds to the cement bed. Without this, the non-porous nature of modern slabs will cause them to “pop” off the mortar as the ground moves.
Critical Considerations for New Build Owners
When landscaping a new property, there are three "invisible" factors that can ruin a project if they are ignored.
1. Service Pipes and Utilities
In many new developments, utility lines (for gas, water, electricity, and fibre optic cables) aren’t buried as deeply as you might expect. Contractors should use underground scanners before carrying out any excavation. Heavy compaction over a shallow gas main or a plastic water pipe can lead to catastrophic - and expensive - damage.
2. Drainage and "The Fall"
New-build properties are often designed with specific site drainage layouts. Your patio must be engineered with a subtle "fall" (usually 1:60 or 1:80) to ensure rainwater runs away from the house and toward a drainage channel or soakaway. Incorrect grading can lead to damp issues against the new brickwork or "pooling" in the centre of the lawn.
3. Ground Settlement Over Time
It takes between two and five years for the ground around a new house to fully settle. Because of this, the sub-base must be over-engineered. If anyone skimps on the aggregate or compaction, the natural shifting of the "made ground" will inevitably lead to hairline cracks in the grout or tilted slabs.
Our Step-by-Step Guide - a Homeowner Checklist
Our patio foundation checklist is as follows.
1. Pre-Excavation and Site Safety
- Locate the utilities: Use a CAT (Cable Avoidance Tool) scanner. In new-builds, gas, water, and fibre-optic lines are often buried at inconsistent depths.
- Check the DPC: Ensure the planned finished height of the patio is at least 150mm (two brick courses) below the house’s Damp Proof Course (DPC).
- Evaluate the soil type: Identify if you are on heavy clay or "made ground" (backfill). This determines if you need a thicker aggregate layer.
2. Excavation and Membrane Installation
- Dig to depth: Excavate deep enough to accommodate the sub-base (100-150mm), the mortar bed (30-50mm), and the slab thickness.
- Lay the membrane: Ensure a heavy-duty membrane is laid across the entire area.
- Overlap joins: Ensure any membrane sheets overlap by at least 300mm to prevent the sub-base from "bleeding" into the soil at the seams.
3. The Sub-Base (Structural Layer)
- Use MOT Type 1 only: Crushed limestone or granite is essential here. Avoid "recycled" hardcore which may contain wood or plaster that will rot.
- Opt for layered compaction: The aggregate must be laid in "lifts" (layers) of no more than 75mm each.
- Use a wacker plate: Each layer must be compacted at least four or five times with a vibrating plate to ensure zero air pockets remain.
- Set the "fall": Use a string line to ensure the sub-base already mimics the final slope (1:60 ratio) away from the property for drainage.
4. Bedding and Slab Laying
- Full wet bed: Ensure the contractor is using a full mortar bed (a ratio of 6:1 or 5:1 sand/cement). Avoid using the "spot bedding" method.
- Prime the slurry: If using porcelain, the back of every slab must be coated with a bonding primer slurry or an SBR and cement mix. Without this, the slabs will eventually detach from the bed due to thermal expansion.
- Ensure an even joint width: Maintain consistent gaps (typically 3mm-5mm for porcelain) to allow for minor ground movement without cracking the slabs.
5. Drainage and Final Checks
- Surface water management: Ensure water is directed to a "soakaway" or an ACO drain channel. Never allow water to pool against the house or a neighbour's fence. Creating a French drain of 50-100mm using stone is an option often used as against existing building / boundaries allowing water to naturally disperse.
- Select your grout or seal: Use a high-quality brush-in resin or a traditional exterior grout. Ensure it is applied in dry conditions to prevent staining, although some jointing compounds can be used in wet conditions so it pays to read products instructions before using.
- Allow for a settlement buffer: If the house is less than two years old, double-check that the sub-base is over-engineered to handle the inevitable shifting of the "made ground.”
The Bottom Line: Investing in Longevity
When landscaping a new build, the "hidden" work below the surface is what determines the success of your project. While it is tempting to focus purely on the aesthetics of the stone, the integrity of the membrane, the depth of the MOT Type 1 aggregate, and the precision of the mortar bed are your only defences against the natural settlement of a new property.
By insisting on these high-specification standards, you aren't just building a patio; you are protecting your home’s damp proof course, ensuring proper site drainage, and adding tangible, hassle-free value to your property for decades to come.
In 2026, a "good" patio looks great on day one, but a professionally engineered patio looks exactly the same five years later—even after the ground has finished moving.
New-build Garden Design from Lumberjacks
As you can see from the various product links above, we have all you need to ensure your new patio has a solid base. As well as paving slabs and aggregates, we also stock a range of accessories, such as cement, tiling spacers, grouting compounds, sealers and tools.
If you have any questions, you can contact us by completing the online form here or by calling 01473 461394.
FAQs
Q: Do you have any advice on patio shapes and trends?
A: Yes – check out our blog post here, which details the various styles and materials which are proving popular in 2026.
Q: Can Lumberjacks deliver your order to you?
A: Yes, we have a delivery service; the cost varies depending on where you live and the size of your order (and in some cases it could be free!). It should certainly spare you some of the heavy lifting work involved in creating a new patio.
For more details, check out our deliveries page here.
Q: Do patios in the UK ever require planning permission?
A: Patios in the UK generally do not require planning permission as they are considered to be a permitted development under the latest Building Regulations. However, permission may be required if the patio is in a conservation area, on a listed building, covers more than 5 sqm in a front garden, or is raised more than 30cm above ground level. If you are in any doubt, contact your local authority’s planning department.
